15-Day Itinerary in Peru: A Mother-Daughter Adventure

Have you ever dreamed of standing atop Machu Picchu at dawn, sleeping in a glass igloo beneath the Andean stars, or savoring Lima’s world’s best cuisine? My daughter Julia and I made these dreams a reality during our 15-day trip to Peru. From the bustling streets of Lima to the mystical heights of the Andes, to the ancient ruins of Machu Picchu, the tranquil waters of Lake Titicaca, and the high dunes in Huacachina – every moment was filled with wonder, challenge, and discovery.

 

Here’s a look at our 15-day itinerary in Peru.

For context, we took this trip in July, which falls during the dry season (May to September). It’s the best time to explore Peru’s diverse landscapes without heavy rains. The weather is perfect for trekking in the Andes and visiting the Amazon. You’ll have clear skies and mild temperatures during the day. Nights, however, can get chilly, especially in high-altitude regions like Cusco and Puno. The dry season also coincides with several cultural celebrations, adding a vibrant energy to our trip.

 

Day 1: Arrival in Lima

We arrived early in Lima (Peru’s capital and largest city), touching down at 5 am.

Lima is known as the gastronomic capital of South America. Its food scene is a vibrant blend of indigenous, European, African, and Asian influences, making it a paradise for food lovers. So, after a quick nap, Julia and I set out on a street food tour from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., where we were introduced to the rich flavors of Peruvian cuisine, including tangy ceviche shark and delicious anticuchos (grilled skewers of meat)—a great start to getting to know this city.

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Barranco, Lima’s bohemian neighborhood famous for its colorful street art, historic mansions, and vibrant nightlife. We took photos at the Puente de Los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs), a popular spot that is said to bring good luck if you hold your breath while crossing it. We then wandered through La Feria Unión de Barranco, a market known for its handmade crafts and unique souvenirs.

 

For dinner, we headed to Huaca Pucllana, a well-known restaurant set beside ancient pre-Inca ruins of the same name. The illuminated adobe pyramid provided a stunning backdrop while we enjoyed traditional Peruvian dishes like Lomo Saltado and our first taste of a perfectly mixed Pisco Sour.

• Accommodation: Kokopelli Lima
• Transportation: Taxi Verde (from the airport to the city) / Uber (moving around the city)
• Tips: We started taking Diamox on day 1. We also made sure to drink plenty of water to prepare our bodies for the altitude change in Cusco.

 

Day 2: Exploring Cusco’s Charm

We caught a morning flight to Cusco, the historic capital of the Inca Empire, located high in the Andes at an altitude of 3,400 meters. The thin air made us feel lightheaded, but the excitement of exploring this ancient city kept us going.

 

In the afternoon, we hired a private driver to visit the Millmas Group, an artisan cooperative that produces high-quality alpaca products. Here, we learned about the different types of alpaca wool and the intricate weaving techniques used to create beautiful textiles. We even got to feed alpacas and guinea pigs, a staple in the Andean diet. We made a quick stop at Cristo Blanco and enjoyed the panoramic views of the city. For dinner, we head to Morena, a popular Cusco restaurant featuring delicious ceviche and chicha morada, a refreshing drink made from purple corn, cinnamon, and cloves.

• Accommodation: Kokopelli Cusco
• Transportation: Latam Airline / Private Van
• Tips: Take the first 1-2 days in Cusco easy. Give your body time to acclimate.

 

Day 3: Exploring Cusco & Moray and Maras Salt Mines ATV Tour

Cusco is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its well-preserved colonial architecture built atop Incan foundations. The town was celebrating Cusco’s Independence Day that day, and it was so cool to watch the colorful parade at Plaza de Armas, the main square that used to be the heart of the Inca Empire. The parade featured costumes, traditional dances, music, and military marches, a great display of the city’s rich cultural heritage.

We saw and touched the 12-angled stone, a great example of Incan stonework found in the narrow streets of the San Blas district. This perfectly carved stone was part of an ancient Inca wall. The cut is precise and demonstrates the Inca civilization’s advanced masonry skills. Afterward, we took photos of Alpaca women dressed in traditional attire with cute alpacas. They are so adorable.

We had a quick lunch at Inca Grill in Plaza de Armas, then headed out for the afternoon adventure. We went on an exhilarating ATV tour to Moray and the Salineras de Maras in the afternoon. Moray is an archaeological site featuring a series of concentric terraces believed to have been an agricultural research station for the Incas (studying how plants react or grow in different elevations).

 

Nearby, the Salineras de Maras, or Maras Salt Mines, are a series of small salt pools where local families have been harvesting salt since Incan times. The views of the salt mines against the backdrop of the Andean mountains were breathtaking.

• Accommodation: Kokopelli Cusco
• Tips: Book your ATVs with one of the local tour companies once you get to Cusco. You don’t need to pre-book this in advance. You’ll get a better rate, and you’ll be supporting the locals. I booked ours the night before. You can find them near Plaza de Armas. Also, bring face masks for dust protection.

 

Day 4: Salkantay Trek – Day 1 Humantay Lake

Salkantay Trek is a popular alternative to the Inca Trail, offering stunning views of snow-capped peaks and lush valleys. It was the most challenging part of our trip but also the most rewarding.

 

We started the day at 3 am, getting picked up at 4 am for the three-hour drive to the trailhead. Our adventure began with a hike to the Sky Camp igloo, where we were welcomed with a hearty lunch.

In the afternoon, we tackled the challenging hike to Humantay Lake. I opted to ride a horse while Julia, full of determination, hiked up the steep trail on foot. Despite the difficulty, she was thrilled to complete it.

 

At the campsite, we shared stories and laughter with our trekking group, a diverse mix of travelers from around the world. The camaraderie and support we found in our group made the journey even more special. We spent the night in a glass igloo under a star-filled sky, a truly magical experience.

 

• Accommodation: Sky Camp
• Tour Company: Salkantay Trekking
• Tips: Listen to your body and rest when needed. Stay hydrated and snack frequently. Wear proper hiking shoes and trekking poles. Be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions (layering clothes is the key).

 

Day 5: Salkantay Trek – Day 2  Salkantay Pass

The day began with a horseback ride from the campsite towards Salkantay Pass. After two hours, we reached the point where the horses could no longer go. We continued on foot to reach the trek’s highest point at 4,630 meters. The air was thin, and every step was difficult, but the views from the pass were breathtaking. Snow-capped mountains and glaciers surrounded us. Our guides served us some sandwiches and coco tea while we enjoyed the view. It was perfect.

 

After a short rest, we descended through the cloud forest to our lunch spot. The Cloud Forest is a unique ecosystem teeming with life. We saw lots of vibrant flora and fauna. The group grew closer as we shared stories about our lives and travels. We continued our trek through the lush rainforest to our campsite at Collpapampa, where we enjoyed another delicious meal prepared by our talented chefs.

• Accommodation: Mountain Sky View
• Tips: Be mentally prepared, today is the longest hike (10-11 hours). Apply mosquito repellent before hiking in the rainforest.

 

Day 6: Salkantay Trek – Day 3 Amazon Rainforest

The morning began with a hike through the vibrant rainforest, visiting a passion fruit plantation and a traditional coffee farm. We learned about the coffee-making process from bean to cup and enjoyed tasting the freshly brewed coffee. As we hiked, we found ourselves naturally walking alongside our newfound friends, exchanging stories and supporting each other through the tougher sections of the trail.

 

We continued hiking for three hours along the scenic Urubamba River, surrounded by lush vegetation and towering mountains, before reaching the town of Aguas Calientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu. That evening, our group met for dinner at Mapacho, sharing laughter and memories of our adventures. We were exhausted but so happy and excited—we did it! Tomorrow, we finally get to see Machu Picchu!

• Accommodation: Royal Inti Machu Picchu
• Tips: Bring a waterproof jacket (even in their dry season).

 

Day 7: Salkantay Trek – Day 4 Machu Picchu

We woke up at 4 am, eager to finally see Machu Picchu, the iconic Incan citadel perched high in the Andes. Often called the “Lost City of the Incas,” Machu Picchu is one of the World’s New Seven Wonders.

 

Our group took the 6 am bus from Aguas Caliente to the entrance of Machu Picchu. Although the morning was misty and wet, by 9 am, the fog lifted, unveiling the breathtaking ruins in all their glory. This UNESCO World Heritage Site took our breath away. We spent hours exploring the intricate stone structures and terraces, completely captivated by their scale and beauty. It is a true testament to Incan ingenuity and craftsmanship. I felt so grateful to have shared this incredible experience with my daughter.

Afterward, our group gathered for lunch at Full House restaurant in Aguas Calientes. As we took the train back to Cusco, our hearts were full—filled with gratitude for the awe-inspiring experience and the friendships we had forged on this unforgettable journey.

• Accommodation: Kokopelli Cusco
• Transportation: Bus, Train, Private Van
• Tips: Hire a tour guide. Take photos to commemorate this moment, and then put your camera away. Be present.

 

Day 8: Starlodge and Via Ferrata Adventure

After the trek, we treated ourselves to a luxurious stay at the Starlodge. We were picked up at noon and driven through the picturesque Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo, a charming town known for its well-preserved Inca ruins and cobbled streets.

 

Our adventure continued with a thrilling Via Ferrata climb and rappelling experience. Via Ferrata is a route-making method that involves steel cables, ladders, and suspension bridges, allowing non-climbers to scale rock faces safely. It was a heart-pounding thrill. And the views of the valley below were breathtaking.

After the via ferrata, we headed to Starlodge, a unique accommodation perched on the side of a mountain, where guests sleep in transparent capsules suspended above the Sacred Valley. After checking in, we enjoyed a beautifully prepared dinner inside a large, cozy tent decorated with Andean textiles and twinkling fairy lights. The meal was a delightful mix of local flavors served with wine, the perfect reward after a day of adventure.

Next, we suited up in harnesses and helmets and climbed up to soak in the hot tub. It was completely dark, lit only by candle lights, making it feel so calm and relaxing. The sky was filled with stars, and Julia and I took it all in.

Afterward, we climbed up to our hanging capsule, a glass-walled pod that offered a clear view of the star-filled sky above. It felt surreal to be suspended on the mountainside, with only the sound of the wind breaking the silence. We enjoyed a cup of tea before drifting off to sleep under the stars.

 

• Accommodation: Starlodge
• Tips: There are only six capsules in Startlodge, so book one as soon as possible.

 

Day 9: A Day of Relaxation

We woke up to the incredible views of the Sacred Valley below. Julia took some stunning drone shots. We soaked in the hot tub again, then went down to breakfast.

We returned to Cusco around 1 pm and had a light lunch at Povea, a local bakery known for its delicious empanadas and pastries. The rest of the afternoon was spent pampering at Montalvo Spa, eating artisanal gelato, and shopping for souvenirs at Centro Artesanal.

We headed to Pachapapa, a restaurant specializing in traditional Andean cuisine, for dinner. Julia bravely ordered guinea pig, a local delicacy. Though she found it a bit too fatty for her taste, she was glad to have tried it. Afterward, we strolled around Plaza de Armas. The scene was breathtaking – the church and colonial buildings illuminated warmly against the dark sky while hundreds of tiny lights twinkled from the houses scattered on the mountain slopes. The square was lively, filled with people relaxing on benches and others wandering around, enjoying the serene, happy atmosphere.

• Accommodation: Kokopelli Cusco
• Transportation: Private Van

 

Day 10: Rainbow Mountain

Our ATV tour guide for Rainbow Mountain picked us up from our hotel at 4:30 am. We drove for an hour and a half and stopped for breakfast (included in the tour). After breakfast, we drove for another two hours to the starting point of our ATV ride. After a thrilling 30-minute ATV ride, we arrived at Rainbow Mountain and only had to walk for a few minutes to reach the summit.

 

It was a long trip to get here, but seeing the multicolored peaks created by the natural mineral deposits of the surrounding rocks made it worthwhile. We returned to Cusco in the afternoon, feeling tired but happy. That evening, we grabbed some empanadas from Povea (again) and enjoyed a quiet night, reflecting on the stunning landscapes we had seen.

• Accommodation: Kokopelli Cusco
• Tips: Make sure to spend a few days in Cusco to adjust to the high altitude before visiting Rainbow Mountain. It’s much higher than Cusco (over 5,200 meters or 17,060 feet).

 

Day 11: Cooking Class and Overnight Bus to Puno

We started our day with a cooking class at Taste Peruvian Cooking Studio. The class began with a tour of San Pedro Market, where we bought ingredients and sampled local delicacies, including some delicious fruit-flavored and spicy chocolates. We learned to make pisco sour, ceviche, Peruvian Yellow Chili Quinotto with sous vide poached egg, and Chirimoya mousse parfait for dessert.

We did some last-minute mall shopping in the afternoon at Centro Comercial de Cuzco. And start heading to the bus station at 8 pm. Then, at 9 pm, we boarded the overnight bus (Cruz Del Sur) from Cusco to Puno, opting for first-class seats (which lay flat) to help us get a good night’s sleep.

• Accommodation: Overnight Bus (Cruz Del Sur)
• Transportation: Uber, Bus

 

Day 12: Puno, Lake Titicaca and Uros Island

We arrived in Puno at 5 am. The bus station was packed with people even this early. Julia and I waited an hour before taking a tuk-tuk to Plaza de Armas. The plaza was quiet, it was just us and a couple of people watching the sunrise as it reflected light into Catedral de Puno.

 

We had breakfast at Hacienda Plaza de Armas, then joined the crowd at Puno’s flag-raising ceremony (which happens every Sunday), a lively event that seems to be attended by all the residents of Puno. The plaza, which was quiet moments ago, suddenly got packed with hundreds of people, transforming into a vibrant hub of activity. It was beautiful to watch. Read more about our story in Puno.

 

Around 10 am, we returned to the bus station to retrieve our bags. We then met our host, Isaac, at Kalapajra Port. He took us on a 30-minute boat ride to his floating island on Lake Titicaca. Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world, is known for its unique floating islands made of totora reeds, home to the Uros people. We spent some time relaxing, taking in the serene views from our cozy bedroom, and exploring the islands. For lunch, Isaac took us to another island with a restaurant called Titicaca Restaurant –  where we enjoyed the best fried chicken and fish we’d ever had. Isaac shared stories about the Uros people’s way of life and took us on a beautiful sunset boat tour in a traditional reed boat. Our dinner was a simple yet delicious chicken dish from Gladys, Isaac’s wife. After dinner, Julia and I got to play with Cody, their cute dog.

• Accommodation: Titicaca Sariri Lodge (Uros Island)
• Transportation: Bus, Tuk-tuk, Taxi
• Tip: Keep a roll of tissue with you all the time.

 

Day 13: Uros Island to Huacachina

We left the Uros island at 5 am in the freezing cold, but we had blankets and hot tea ready on the boat. As we sipped our tea, the sunrise lit up the sky in soft pinks and oranges, reflecting off the still waters of Lake Titicaca. The calm, shimmering scene felt almost magical, as if time stood still in the peaceful morning light.

After saying goodbye to Issac at Kalapajra Port, we took a taxi to Puno Airport for our flight to Lima. From Lima, we caught a Green Taxi to the bus station and boarded a Cruz Del Sur bus to Ica, passing through Peru’s coastal desert.

After about 5 hours, we arrived in Ica and took a 30-minute taxi to Huacachina, a tiny oasis town surrounded by massive sand dunes. Despite the long travel day, it was comfortable, and we enjoyed the changing scenery. We checked into our hostel, had a nice dinner, and chatted with the staff. We ended the evening with a peaceful walk around the lagoon under the stars before heading to bed for a well-earned rest.

• Accommodation: Kokopelli Huacahina
• Transportation: Boat, Taxi, Latam Airline, Taxi Verde, Bus

 

Day 14: Exploring Huacachina

We spent the morning leisurely strolling around the lagoon, where the still waters mirrored the palm trees and towering dunes, creating a postcard-perfect scene. After lunch, we rested until 3 pm, when we joined the buggy tour. Racing up and down the massive dunes was a thrill, with the wind in our hair and sand flying beneath us. Our guide handed out sandboards at the top of a particularly steep dune, encouraging us to try them.

I decided to sit this one out—not because I mind sandboarding, but because I wasn’t keen on hiking back up the dunes. Julia, on the other hand, was all in. She eagerly grabbed a board, lay on her stomach, and, with a gentle push, zoomed down the dune at top speed. After each run, she happily hiked back up to do it again and again, loving every minute.

As the sun began to set, the sky turned a brilliant gold, casting long shadows over the dunes. We stood there, taking it all in, as the quiet beauty of the moment washed over us. It felt like time had paused just for us. Afterward, we returned to the hostel, gathered our things, and took the evening shuttle back to Lima, arriving late at night, tired but fulfilled by the day’s adventures.

• Accommodation: Kokopelli Lima
• Transportation: Shuttle Van (from Kokopelli Huacachina to Kokopelli Lima)

 

Day 15: Lima – Central Restaurant

We wrapped up our trip with a highly anticipated lunch at Central Restaurant, the world’s best restaurant in 2023. Central’s menu took us on a culinary journey through Peru’s diverse ecosystems, featuring ingredients sourced from different altitudes. Each dish was a work of art designed to capture the unique flavors of Peru, from the Amazon to the Andes.

 

We savored every bite, amazed by how the chef and his team brought the essence of Peru’s landscapes to life on our plates. Afterward, we had a private tour of their research center, Mater, and their sister restaurant, Kjolle. Seeing their innovative approach to Peruvian cuisine and the dedication behind every dish was fascinating. The tour deepened our appreciation for the passion and creativity that goes into showcasing Peru’s culinary heritage. Read more about what it is like to dine in Central.

It was the perfect way to end our Peruvian adventure, celebrating not just the breathtaking landscapes and rich history but also the vibrant, diverse flavors that make Peru so special. With full hearts and satisfied palates, we left Central and headed to the airport.

• Transportation: Uber
• Tips: Give yourself plenty of time to get to Lima airport, especially during rush hour.

 

Google Interactive Map

This interactive map showcases the Peruvian destinations mentioned in the itinerary to help you visualize and plan your trip.

 

Want to know the best destinations to visit in Peru and the best time of the year to see them? I got you covered — click this link.

 

Final Thoughts: A Journey Worth Taking

Peru tested our limits, inspired our curiosity, and gave us memories to treasure forever.

If you’re considering a trip to Peru, my advice is simple: Go.

Whether hiking the Andes, exploring ancient civilizations, or diving into the local culture, there’s something for everyone. And if you’re lucky enough to share the journey with someone special, as I did with Julia, the experience becomes even more unforgettable.

Peru’s dramatic contrasts create a destination full of literal and metaphorical highs and lows. Every challenge promises adventure, and every moment offers a reward – it’s truly the journey of a lifetime.

Which part of our trip sparked your wanderlust the most? I’d love to hear your thoughts!