When Julia and I planned our 15-day mother-daughter trip through Peru, we knew the food would be excellent, but we had no idea we’d hit the culinary jackpot! Central in Lima has been named the World’s Best Restaurant for 2023, and as food lovers, we couldn’t pass up the chance to dine there. On our last day in Lima, we sat in the famous restaurant filled with excitement. We thought we were in for a fantastic meal, but what we got was so much more.
The Anticipation Builds
As soon as I booked our reservation at Central (no small feat, I might add), Julia and I dove headfirst into research mode. We immersed ourselves in articles and watched the Netflix show Chef’s Table featuring Virgilio Martínez, Central’s visionary chef and owner. We became increasingly fascinated by his philosophy of showcasing Peru’s incredible biodiversity through food. The more we learned about Central and Mater Iniciativa (their in-house research center), the more our excitement grew.
A Garden of Delights
On the big day, we arrived at Central a bit early, our excitement palpable. From the outside, the restaurant was hidden from view. The building looked almost fortress-like, yet an unassuming gray structure that gave little hint of the culinary wonders within. “Mom, are you sure this is it?” Julia whispered, echoing my own initial doubts.
At precisely 12:45 pm, the gate opened, revealing a lush garden that took our breath away. This wasn’t just any garden – it was a living pantry, bursting with herbs, vegetables, and plants that would soon find their way onto our plates.
Julia, my budding chef, was in her element. “Mom, look at those herbs! I’ve never seen anything like them,” she exclaimed, pointing out unfamiliar plants with childlike wonder. I couldn’t help but smile, remembering the little girl who started cooking in our kitchen when she was barely 5 years old.
The Mater Table: A Prelude to Our Culinary Adventure
A friendly staff member ushered us towards the entrance. Instead of heading straight to our table, she stopped us at what looked like a museum exhibit. This, we learned, was the Mater table – a visual representation of Central’s philosophy and a showcase of the ingredients we were about to experience.
Our guide explained the various items, each representing a different region and altitude of Peru. Among them was achiote, known as atsuete in the Philippines. This vibrant red seed, used for both color and flavor, bridged my childhood memories with Peru’s culinary landscape. The Mater table was a captivating introduction to our impending gastronomic journey through Peru’s ecosystems.
Setting the Scene
As we were led to our table, Central’s interior revealed before us. The minimalist design exuded calm sophistication, a stark contrast to Lima’s bustling streets. Natural light flooded the space through floor-to-ceiling windows, offering glimpses of the lush garden outside. Tables, generously spaced, created an intimate atmosphere despite the restaurant’s popularity.
Our table itself was a geological story told in marble – a slab with a unique veining that caught the eye. As we settled in, I noticed every detail, from custom-made plates to carefully chosen cutlery, contributed to Central’s larger narrative.
The Alturas Mater Experience Begins
When our waiter presented us with the menu for our 14-course Alturas Mater experience, Julia and I exchanged excited glances. We knew we were in for a culinary journey unlike any other.
“Remember,” I whispered to Julia, “we’re here to learn and experience. Not everything might be to our taste, but that’s part of the adventure.”
She nodded solemnly, but I could see the spark of anticipation in her eyes.
What followed was a three-hour odyssey through Peru’s diverse ecosystems, each dish a carefully crafted representation of a specific altitude and region. The staff didn’t simply serve us food; they were our guides on this culinary journey. With every course, they shared the story behind each ingredient, often instructing us on the best way to savor the flavors.
By the time we reached the third dish, “Urubamba Corn” from 1,950 meters above sea level (MASL), I was already feeling full. I couldn’t help but laugh – we had barely begun! The dish, a delightful combination of white and purple corn served with chicha-infused butter, was too tempting to resist. After testing it, Julia and I exchanged enthusiastic nods of approval.
One standout moment happened when we tried the “Cold Sea Coast,” which represented 0 MASL. The plate arrived with an intriguing combination of squid, spirulina, and loche, topped with sea urchin. Julia’s eyes lit up. “Oh, I’ve always wanted to try sea urchin!” she exclaimed. I watched with amusement as she took her first bite. Her expression changed quickly, and she laughed, “Not for me!” We both burst into giggles, appreciating the adventure of trying something new, even if it didn’t suit her palate.
Unexpected Delights and “Interesting” Discoveries
True to our expectations, some dishes were absolutely delicious, while others were, as Julia diplomatically put it, “interesting.” But even the more challenging plates were fascinating from a culinary perspective.
One such “interesting” dish was the “MIL Lab” dish from 3,600 MASL. It was a dish prepared with cushuro, a cyanobacteria that grows in high-altitude lagoons and resembles small, gelatinous spheres. It’s considered the “Caviar of the Andes”.
“It’s like eating little water balloons,” Julia giggled. I had to laugh. “Well, now we can say we’ve tried high-altitude bacteria. That’s not something you eat every day!”
The Ritual of Dining
One aspect of the experience that both amused and impressed us was the attention to detail in every aspect of service. We noticed that whenever one of us left the table, a waiter would appear as if by magic. With a pair of chopsticks, they would deftly pick up our napkin, give it a few graceful waves in the air to reshape it into a perfect triangle, and then place it neatly beside our plate.
The first time this happened, Julia and I exchanged bemused glances. By the third time, we were trying to stifle our giggles.
“I feel like I should applaud,” Julia whispered after a particularly impressive napkin-folding display.
“Maybe we should start doing this at home,” I suggested with a wink. “It would certainly make our family dinners more entertaining!”
A Sweet Surprise
We chatted with our primary waiter, and his face lit up when he realized we had done our research and was genuinely interested in the philosophy behind Central.
“You know,” he said, “it’s refreshing to meet guests who truly appreciate what we’re trying to do here. So many people come just for the Instagram photos, without really understanding our mission.”
His words warmed our hearts. It was a reminder of why I had wanted to bring Julia here in the first place – not just for the incredible food, but for the experience of learning about and appreciating a culture through its cuisine. Little did we know, this conversation would lead to an unexpected treat.
Behind the Scenes: A Private Tour
Just as we thought our Central experience was coming to an end, our waiter introduced us to Melissa Loayza, the head of Kitchen and Logistics development. To our surprise, she offered us a private tour of the facilities!
Our first stop was at the Mater Iniciativa, the research center that forms the backbone of Central’s culinary innovation. Here, they study the cultural, biological, ecological, and anthropological components of Peruvian ingredients they discover and catalog them in their place of origin.
During our tour, Melissa gave us samples of 100% copasu chocolate, which was delicious—creamy with a unique aftertaste. She also offered us copasu juice to try. It was interesting to see how differently we each described its taste. Melissa thought it tasted like vodka, I felt it was similar to fish soup, and Julia compared it to kiwi. Melissa explained that our different views come from how our brains match new flavors with what we already know – it was an intriguing discussion about flavor perception.
Next, we got a peek at Kjolle, another restaurant in the same building, run by Pía León, Virgilio Martínez’s wife. Pia is an acclaimed chef and named the World’s Best Female Chef in 2021. Kjolle is also ranked among the world’s top 50 restaurants.
As we neared the end of our tour, we walked by Central’s kitchen. It was about 4:30 pm. Most chefs had finished their lunch service so the kitchen was quieter. The kitchen was impressive. It was spotless, with shiny stainless steel equipment and neatly organized stations. The few chefs who were there looked up and gave us friendly smiles and waves.
One of them called out, “Hope you enjoyed your meal!” Julia beamed and gave them a thumbs up. Even this brief glimpse into the heart of Central was exciting for us. It made us appreciate even more the hard work that goes into creating such an extraordinary dining experience.
Reflections on an Unforgettable Experience
As we bid farewell to Central, Julia and I found ourselves almost speechless. How could we possibly sum up what we had just experienced?
“Mom,” Julia said as we walked out of Central, “that was amazing, thank you.”
I smiled at Julia and gave her a quick hug. “You’re welcome, baby. I’m so glad we got to experience this together. What was your favorite part?”
We started to compare notes on our favorite dishes and moments from the meal, laughing about some of the more unusual ingredients we’d tried. It was one of those special mother-daughter moments I’ll always cherish.
Our lunch at Central wasn’t just a meal; it was an education, an adventure, and an inspiration. It gave us a deeper appreciation for Peru’s incredible diversity and left us with a renewed sense of wonder about the world of food.
Tips for Visiting Central
If you’re planning to dine at Central, here are a few tips:
- Book well in advance: Reservations open three months ahead and fill up quickly.
- Allow plenty of time: The full tasting menu experience can take 3-4 hours.
- Come with an open mind: You’ll be trying ingredients and flavor combinations you’ve likely never encountered before.
- Consider the beverage pairing: It’s an additional cost, but the carefully selected wines and non-alcoholic options enhance the experience.
2 Responses
The descriptive details you shared really brought this experience to life. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and reflections on this dining adventure with us!
Thank you for taking the time to read it. I’m so happy to hear your feedback! Writing it brought me so much joy—it felt like Julia and I were back at that moment. I hope this story can help someone looking to visit Central.